The scourge of British transport systems
By the end of the festival over the weekend, I’d pretty much destroyed my voice. I began to wonder how people who have to talk – or even shout – for a living cope if they’re putting their voice under that much strain all day every day. Coming home took from 10am to 4pm. It’s not actually that far between Tring and Manchester but somehow the British transport system elongates everything, especially on Sunday. It takes less time, however, to get to Spain from here, especially if you ignore all the faffing around at airport security.
There is one thing in the world of which you must harbour grave fear and dread upon a journey to Britain. It has three words and is known as Replacement Bus Service. It means no trains, just buses. Big buses on small country lanes, driven by the guy from the Budweiser advert (“Wassuuuuuuup!”) constantly talking on his mobile to friends saying such reassuring things as “Wassup man? I got no idea where I am… I think I’m goin’ to Milton Keynes… Where the f*ck is Leyton Buzzard?”
I decided not to be terrified. I was too busy holding on to the seat in case I fell out of the window as we rolled around hairpin bends in a full-size coach. Another two women complained that they’d been put on the wrong bus. The conductor asked them if they knew the person who had instructed them to get on the bus had been a genuine employee of the rail service.
“But he had a clipboard!” exclaimed the woman.
“Ah, well,” replied the conductor. “But did he really check it?”
This was a frightening thought. There might be people out there, deliberately disguising themselves as rail service employees, even down to the regulation clipboard, misdirecting customers all over the place. Forcing them onto buses to Milton Keynes when they actually wanted to go to London Euston, or Northampton, or Manchester, even. It doesn’t bear thinking about. There was a time when clipboards were a sign of reliability – or a geographer on the loose. These days, you can’t trust anybody.
Train services in Britain have improved immensely in the last ten years, in the sense that they now run, and often even manage the ambitious achievement of doing so on time. Not so the train from Milton Keynes to Manchester, which was ten minutes late. People sat around talking to each other in low voices about how they were going to miss their connections to Edinburgh, Glasgow and elsewhere.
I was reminded of a line from Layer Cake, which at the time made me laugh out loud:
“I hate Britain. Not even the drug dealers work weekends.” The trains certainly don’t.


